Stretching north from Arcata to Redwoods National Park, and east to Willow Creek and Six Rivers National Forest, the northern portion of Humboldt County encompasses a remarkable range of climates, terrains, cultures and municipalities. The coastal towns of Arcata, McKinleyville and Trinidad enjoy a mild climate year-round, and each town has its own distinctive character, from the college town atmosphere of Arcata to the dramatic, rugged coastline of Trinidad with its colorful mix of artists and fishermen. Casinos, nightclubs and brew pubs provide lively music venues and a vibrant night life. Further north, visitors can experience the majesty of Redwood National Park, and see herds of wild elk grazing near Orick. Inland the summer sizzles, and during winter the peaks are blanketed with snow. Six Rivers National Forest offers hiking, camping and world-class fishing, all of it in a spectacular wilderness setting.

Few places anywhere offer so much variety in such a small geographical area. It’s no surprise that people who discover it return again and again.

Arcata

Many diverse elements contribute to the mix that is the city of Arcata. Founded in 1850 as Union Town, Arcata originally served as a depot and base camp for the gold fields in the Trinity Alps to the east, and lumber camps all around. At present, Arcata has an economy that includes tourism, education, manufacturing, a healthy retail base and various service industries. The residents are an intriguing combination of students, senior citizens, artists and a variety of working people.

With a population of around 17,000, Arcata is a wonderful place to spend a few days. Close to beaches, the forest, and home to a marsh bird sanctuary, there are outdoor opportunities everywhere. For those who want to enjoy some nightlife there are theatre, live music, dancing, and numerous taverns and restaurants in town. There are events happening year-round, including Arts! Arcata on the second Friday of each month. An open house for local businesses and artists, it features musical performances, dance, demonstrations and fine arts by Humboldt County locals.

The Arcata Plaza is an iconic landmark in the center of downtown. Once home to grazing cows and pack animals, today the Plaza serves as a hub for commercial and festive activities, and a popular farmers’ market.

Several historic buildings around Arcata have been restored. Jacoby’s Storehouse, located on the south side of the plaza, is perhaps the most famous. It was built by Augustus Jacoby, a prominent local merchant, and constructed of locally quarried stone and bricks, with decorative stonework and iron shutters. Designated a Historical Landmark, it is one of the most beautiful restorations on the North Coast. Arcata is also home to the Minor Theatre, the oldest continuously run movie theater in the country. One of the oldest colleges in the California State University system, Humboldt State University, is located in Arcata as well.

A great way to spend a summer evening is to watch the Humboldt Crabs semi-pro baseball team at the Arcata ballpark at Eighth and F Streets. The Crabs are perennially one of the top-rated teams in their league, and the ballpark is small and intimate. Nor should the Fourth of July celebrations be missed in Arcata, where the whole town comes out to party with barbecues, music, food, baseball and other old-fashioned, small-town pleasures.

The California Welcome Center in north Arcata provides information about all of Humboldt County. It is located just off Hwy 101, two miles north of downtown Arcata at the Giuntoli exit. The Welcome Center is on the west side of the highway on Heindon Road.

Arcata Plaza

In 1850, when the Union Wharf and Plank Company laid out the town that is now Arcata, it had the foresight to designate block 167 as a park or common area. It is possible that some of the hardy types who were on the North Coast after a headlong rush to the gold fields remembered the commons of their New England homes or the squares of sleepy Southern towns. Whatever the reason, this precious block, now the Arcata Plaza, was saved for posterity. Not that it was treated all that reverently at first – early arrivals camped on the square in tents, huts or whatever shelter they could contrive while making arrangements to get to the diggings on the Klamath, Trinity or Salmon Rivers. Some people who settled in town thought that the open space in the middle was a fine spot to graze their cows and goats.

A bandstand in the center of the plaza was completed in 1901 and citizens planted rosebushes and boxwood around the rich, green lawn in the following years, as well as the first palm trees. The bandstand has since been replaced with a statue of William McKinley, and local businesses have adopted the flower beds. Today, people gather on the plaza to visit, to take a lunch break or just to relax and enjoy the sun. It is a place where craft fairs, sidewalk sales, rallies, demonstrations and just about any other kind of gathering takes place.

Cal Poly Humboldt

Arcata is the home of Cal Poly Humboldt, one of 23 campuses that comprise the California State University system. The university was founded in 1913 as a teachers college and was called Humboldt Normal School. Today the university boasts curricula in environmental education, business, liberal and creative arts that are nationally known and imitated, making it great place to visit and an extraordinary place to learn.

Offering a quality education in a distinctive setting, Cal Poly is ideal for college-bound students who are looking for small classes and individual attention from faculty. Typically, the students who attend Cal Poly are from the upper one-third of their high school graduating classes.

Cal Poly Humboldt is also regarded as one of the most beautiful college campuses in California with its more than 140 acres sitting atop a hill overlooking Humboldt Bay. Culturally, Cal Poly is a hub on the North Coast, sponsoring art exhibits, symphony concerts, dance performances, live theater and lectures. The campus boasts the largest library facility in California north of San Francisco, a marine laboratory, fish hatchery, greenhouse and more. It is also known for an excellent student athletic program, and is home to the renowned Marching Lumberjacks band. Cal Poly Humboldt also hosts a variety of annual meetings and conferences for professional organizations and clubs from across the country, bringing thousands of visitors to Humboldt County every year.

The university is located at 1 Harpst Street in Arcata. For more information call 707-826-3011, or go online to Humboldt.edu.

Arcata Skate Park

Skateboarders will find that the Arcata Skatepark is a great spot to ride. The park boasts a nice 8-foot bowl, which is perfect for working on vertical moves. Two smaller bowls are connected to a snake run that lets you hit smaller air. Less experienced skaters will find that these little bowls and the surrounding ledges offer a chance to work up to the bigger one. A small street course and a fun box beg you to try to connect some of your tricks and work up a run of your own.

At about 10,000 square ft. this park is neither too big nor too small, and is usually not terribly crowded. Better yet, there is no fee to use this public skatepark. If you get that urge to hit the park with your board, head to the Arcata Skatepark and enjoy the ride!

WHERE: 900 Sunset Ave., one block west of Hwy 101.

Arcata Community Forest

If you’re looking for attractions in the rugged outdoors close to all the comforts of town, the Arcata Community Forest is perfect. This incredible redwood forest is more than 600 acres, all of which lie inside Arcata’s city limits. Head out into the lush, green forest, and within a few seconds you’ll forget that you are still inside a bustling little town.

Take a leisurely walk to clear your mind or go on a more rigorous hike. Hop on your mountain bike and hit the trails. What makes it all even better is the fact that the forest is managed in order to preserve it, along with the many other great parks that dot Arcata. You’ll love the time away from life’s stresses that you spend exploring the Arcata Community Forest.

WHERE: Access the forest through Redwood Park at the east end of 11th Street, or at 14th Street and California Avenue.
MORE INFO: Arcata Department of Environmental Services, 707-822-8184, CityOfArcata.com

Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Sanctuary

Arcata Marsh photo by 101Things.com — Arcata Marsh, photo by 101Things.com

Go hiking and birding in the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary, a remarkable natural habitat and recreation area built around a cost-effective and environmentally sound wastewater treatment facility. This well-known 154-acre wildlife refuge is along the Pacific Flyway, making it a popular destination for birders from all over the world. It is home or rest stop to over 300 species of birds or mammals, as well as over 100 species of plants and six species of fish. The Sanctuary offers 4.66 miles of trails for recreational use such as jogging, bicycling, hiking, bird watching and leashed dog walking.

The marsh received the Innovations in Government Award from the Ford Foundation/Harvard University Kennedy School of Government. Despite being a wastewater disposal system, the open-air lakes do not produce any smell and are a popular destination for bird watching, cycling, walking and jogging. The marsh is an incredibly beautiful natural recreation area and is popular with local wildlife and landscape artists.

Friends of the Arcata Marsh (FOAM) provides educational tours of the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary free of charge. Guided tours are given every Saturday at 2pm starting at the Interpretive Center. The Redwood Regional Audubon Society offers bird-watching tours every Saturday beginning at 8:30am from the Klopp Lake parking lot at the end of South I Street.

WHERE: Located on South G Street in Arcata.
MORE INFO: 707-826-2359, CityOfArcata.com

Mad River County Park

Mad River photo by Denise Comiskey — Mad River, photo by Denise Comiskey

For a magnificent, memorable beach and riverside experience, head over to Mad River County Park. See wildlife in its natural habitat along the shores of the Mad River, which spills into the Pacific Ocean. Spanning many miles, the Mad River starts in Trinity County and winds through Six Rivers National Forest. Matthews Dam, approximately one-third of the way along the river, forms Ruth Lake. The Mad River finally empties into the Pacific Ocean along the mile-long shore of a picturesque beach at the mouth, just north of Arcata. Harbor seals and sea lions can be seen sunbathing near the mouth of the river. Numerous birds scurry along the water’s edge or in the sky in search of a meal. A boat launch is available for fishing or exploring the waters of the beautiful Humboldt coast. You can build a fire at night on the sand, roast hot dogs and marshmallows or just keep warm at the beach while hanging out with good friends.

MORE INFO: 707-445-7651

Blue Lake

Although the locals are used to it, many visitors to Blue Lake are surprised to find no lake. In the 1860s, the lake for which the town is named was created by receding floodwaters of the Mad River, and for 50 years gave the place a resort atmosphere. A hotel, now long gone, was built on its shore by an early Blue Lake settler. People from the foggy coast made the trek to Blue Lake to enjoy the lake, the river fishing and warmer temperatures of summer. Changes in the course of the river in the 1920s caused the lake to disappear, but fishing, sunshine and its rural charm still draw people to Blue Lake to live and play.

Blue Lake Casino, operated by the Blue Lake Rancheria Tribe, is a great place to find quality entertainment. Enjoy live music, slots and gaming tables, as well as gourmet and family dining.

Since 1975, Blue Lake has also been home to the internationally known Dell’Arte Players Company and the Dell’Arte School of Physical Theatre. Dell’Arte performs locally, regionally, nationally and abroad, with theater students from all over the world train at the school.

Fishing the Mad River

Although the Mad River is home to a wide range of fish including several species of trout and salmon, some of which are currently protected, the river is primarily noted for its prolific hatchery steelhead. Steelhead run from December through March, and one of the most popular places to fish for them is along the banks of the Mad River between the Mad River Fish Hatchery and the Blue Lake Bridge. The shallow gradient and smooth cobble also lend themselves nicely to wading. Popular methods include eggs, beads and pink worms with a float, or fly fishing with a variety of fly selections and types of line. Please note that there is no fishing within 250 feet either upstream or downstream of the hatchery’s fish ladder.

The Mad River is subject to periodic low flow closure. For updates call the CDFW Low Flow River Closure Hotline at 707-822-3164.

Mad River Fish Hatchery

Steelhead are raised at the Mad River Fish Hatchery for about a year, and released in March or April into the Mad River. For adults coming back to spawn, there is a fish ladder that provides a series of pools for the steelhead to jump up on their way back to the hatchery. Six-hundred-fifty gallons per minute of water runs down the fish ladder when it is in operation during the spawning season (generally January to March). There is no fishing within 250 feet either upstream or downstream of the fish ladder.

Free hatchery tours are offered during spawning season (generally January through March), from 8:30 a.m. until 11 a.m., rain or shine (tours are 30 minutes long). The hatchery property also offers opportunities for bird-watching, fishing, picnicking and river viewing. Restrooms are available and the property is handicapped-accessible.

WHERE: 1660 Hatchery Rd., Blue Lake
MORE INFO: For directions or to schedule a tour, call 707-822-0592.

McKinleyville

Mad River Bridge part of the Hammond Trail photo by Denise Comiskey — Mad River Bridge, part of the Hammond Trail,
photo by Denise Comiskey

The town of McKinleyville sits on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean between the Mad and Little Rivers, with tree-covered mountains as a backdrop. The surrounding rural beauty only enhances what lies within. The town’s motto “Where the horses have the right of way,” gives a hint of McKinleyville residents’ leisurely attitude and enthusiasm for the outdoors. Dwellings vary from affordable apartments to stately ocean-view homes. The Eureka-Arcata Airport, which in fact is located in northern McKinleyville, serves as the air gateway to Humboldt County, and home base for the Coast Guard’s Air Rescue Team.

Downtown, thriving businesses line Central Avenue offering dining and commercial services. The McKinleyville Shopping Center includes a variety of shops and also features a 160-ft. tall totem pole carved from a single coastal redwood, the second tallest in the world, and the tallest made from one tree.

In late May and early June the entire community turns out for Pony Express Days, a five-day celebration that includes parades, picnics, cook-offs, dancing and more. It’s been going strong for more than 45 years. On the third Friday of each month, McKinleyville Arts Night features the arts, music, food and fun.

Hammond Coastal Trail

Hammond Trail photo by Steve Hammons — Hammond Trail, photo by Steve Hammons

One of the best places to bike, hike, jog, or ride a horse in Humboldt County is the Hammond Coastal Trail. Part of the California Coastal Trail, it is more than 5 miles long, stretching north from Arcata to Clam Beach County Park in McKinleyville. The trail lies along what was originally a railroad track built in the early 1900s for transporting redwood logs from the Little River area to the Hammond Lumber Mill on Samoa Spit. As a result of the railroad, the asphalt and crushed stone trail is quite level, which makes it an excellent place for several exercise options. There are two distinct sections of the trail. The southern part is a 3-mile-long paved path stretching from the Mad River Bridge, through Hiller Park to Widow White Creek in McKinleyville, featuring amazing views of the Pacific Ocean and the Mad River. After traversing the historic Mad River Bridge and ascending a short but fairly steep hill, stop by Roger’s Market which serves as a refreshment center for trail travelers, complete with deli and Wi-Fi. The northern section of the trail is mostly paved and leads from North Letz Avenue to Clam Beach County Park. See spectacular vistas of the ocean and Trinidad Head from sea level or the high bluffs. There are also plenty of places to access the beach.

WHERE: Take the Hwy 101 Giuntoli Lane exit 2 miles north of Arcata, then head west on Janes Road to Mad River Beach. Or, on the McKinleyville end, take the Murray or School Road exits.
MORE INFO: 707-445-7651

Hiller Park & Sports Complex / Mad River Bluffs

Whether you’re a parent with kids, a nature-loving dog owner or just someone who enjoys a scenic walk, McKinleyville’s 48 acre Hiller Park and Sports Complex, next to McKinleyville Land Trust’s 75 acre Mad River Bluffs, is well worth a visit. The regional park and sports complex has two nicely maintained Little League fields, one Babe Ruth field and a softball field, so grab your mitt and toss a few with the kids. Or recruit a team and join the Coed Wood Bat Softball League. The league is held from early August through September. The park also has two youth soccer fields, and two collegiate-size soccer fields for match play at all levels. Then head over to the playground area, which consists of two separate age-specific areas. The tot lot is great for the littlest of park-goers, and older kids love to climb and slide on the bigger equipment. Adjacent to the park are plenty of tables for picnicking.

Dogs are not permitted in the play area, but are welcome on the network of loop trails that crisscross the recreation area. Connect to the Hammond Trail, or take a walk through Mad River Bluffs natural area where there are four overlooks above the Mad River and a staircase down to the river bank. Signs along the trails help the nature walker choose a course.

WHERE: 795 Hiller Rd., McKinleyville
MORE INFO: 707-839-9003, MckinleyvilleCSD.com

Trinidad

Whether shrouded in mist or dazzling in sunshine, Trinidad Bay is the crown jewel of the California North Coast. Its cool waters and rugged shoreline make the small village of Trinidad a favorite of visitors and locals alike. A peaceful hideaway perfect for fishing, beachcombing, hiking, kayaking, visiting art galleries, dining or just relaxing, Trinidad has a population of less than 400 in its incorporated city. The village is a noted artists’ colony. Its harbor is home to a small fleet of commercial fishermen, and charter boats are available at the Trinidad Pier for whale-watching or fishing. Also, anglers can drop a line right off the pier. Trinidad Cove, with its sheltered waters and awe-inspiring natural scenery, is a favorite among kayakers. The rocky coast is home to seals, sea lions, dozens of bird species and the occasional gray whale. Trinidad is graced by several prominent marine landmarks, most notably the Trinidad Memorial Lighthouse, Humboldt State University’s Fred Telonicher Marine Laboratory, and the historic Trinidad Head Light.

Just north of the dramatic promontory of Trinidad Head stretches the mile-long sandy expanse of Trinidad State Beach. A little further north, just off Hwy 101, visitors will find Patrick’s Point State Park. In fact, the spectacular Trinidad coast is home to ten public beaches altogether.

Trinidad Memorial Lighthouse

The Trinidad Memorial Lighthouse is a replica of the still functioning Trinidad Head Lighthouse that sits atop a cliff on Trinidad Head, which is located to the west of Trinidad Harbor. Constructed in 1949, until January of 2018 the Memorial Lighthouse stood just off Main Street, where it sat in a lovely park overlooking the rocky coast below the seaside village. Many visitors, and even some locals, used to think that the memorial was the actual operational lighthouse. That one, however, is open to the public only once a year. Its now-retired original fog bell and Fresnel lens, though, became part of the memorial, which honors those lost or buried at sea, and also serves as an iconic symbol of Trinidad.

Following a winter season of heavy rains, the ground surrounding Trinidad Memorial Lighthouse started to slip in March 2017. Geologists were called in to investigate, and determined that the lighthouse was in danger of being swept away and destroyed by a landslide. The following January the Memorial Lighthouse was moved to a temporary home on Trinidad Rancheria land near the harbor and Trinidad State Park, and in March it was decided that its permanent location would still be on Trinidad Rancheria land near the pier, but higher up. Fundraising and the permitting process are currently underway.

WHERE: Near Trinidad Pier.
MORE INFO: Trinidad City Hall, 707-677-0223; TrinidadCivicClub.org or visit the Trinidad Civic Club on Facebook.

Trinidad State Beach

One of the most popular and spectacularly beautiful beaches in Humboldt County is Trinidad State Beach, a rock-strewn, mile long expanse of sandy beach that stretches from Trinidad Head north to Elk Head. The southern portion of the beach is easily accessible from the parking lot located at the beach’s edge by Bay Street and Lighthouse Road, just off Edwards Street. Kid-friendly and dog-friendly, this section is perfect for building sand castles and splashing in the surf, or just plain relaxing.

More adventurous visitors, meanwhile, will find the hike down from Elk Head Trail to College Cove at the beach’s northern end particularly rewarding, with dramatic views of the cove and Pewetole Island. The northern end of Trinidad State Beach is also home to small caves, a natural arch, and fantastic tidepools during low tide. At negative tides, visitors can walk out to Pewetole Island for a unique and rewarding experience.

A third trail leads down to the middle of the beach from State Park Road, off Stagecoach Road. At the trailhead to that access point, visitors will find restrooms, parking, and a small picnic area with tables and stoves.

WHERE: Trinidad State Beach is a no-fee day use area and located 19 miles north of Eureka off Hwy 101.
MORE INFO: 707-677-3570, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=418

Patrick’s Point State Park

Wedding Rock in Patrick’s Point photo by Gregg Gardiner — Wedding Rock in Patrick’s Point,
photo by Gregg Gardiner

Patrick’s Point State Park is located in the heart of Redwood Country. If seeing spectacular panoramas, rocky cliffs, hiking trails and sandy beaches is always on your list of things to do, don’t pass up this wonderful experience.

Six miles of hiking trails thread through the park with acres of dense forest stretching over an ocean headland. Stroll under a canopy of spruce, hemlock, pine, fir and red alder trees. Wildflower meadows offer spectacular vistas. The Rim Trail, which follows an old Indian path over the park’s rocky promontories, provides views of the coast and serves as a great lookout for whale-watching.

Hike along the broad beaches and explore tidepools, cast a fishing rod, search for driftwood, spot sea lions and gaze at magnificent sunsets. Short, steep hikes will take you to the tops of Ceremonial Rock and Lookout Rock, while coastal hikes take you to Wedding Rock and Patrick’s Point offering breathtaking ocean vistas. History buffs will enjoy the re-created Yurok Village with its traditional Native American family houses, sweat house, changing houses, redwood canoe and dance house. There is also a native plant garden with species of local flora including seasonal flowers and berries. There are also three group picnic areas and camping facilities.

WHERE: 25 miles north of Eureka off Hwy 101.
MORE INFO: 707-677-3570, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=417

Orick

North of Trinidad lies the town of Orick, located on the banks of Redwood Creek near where it flows into the Pacific Ocean. Driving on Hwy 101 from the south you are likely to see a herd of Roosevelt Elk in the meadow in front of the little red schoolhouse between Big Lagoon and Stone Lagoon. The meadow is one of the elk’s favorite grazing spots and the site of their mating rituals in September. Sitting virtually in the middle of the Redwood National and Prairie Creek State Parks, Orick is a great place to access the natural wilderness. Use a variety of trails to see wildlife, explore some of the world’s tallest trees, and hike the dramatic coast. There are food and beverages available from local businesses, as well as about a half a dozen artisan burl outlets lining Hwy 101 as it passes through town.

Humboldt Lagoons State Park

Big Lagoon photo by Steve Hammons — Big Lagoon, photo by Steve Hammons

Agate hunting, bird-watching, beachcombing, boating and whale-watching are all popular outdoor activities for families along the West Coast. One of the best places to do all of these and more is at the Humboldt Lagoons State Park. In the early 1900s, Dry Lagoon was drained to make way for crops and dairy ranches. The effort proved uneconomical and, eventually, Mother Nature reclaimed this natural marshland habitat, which supports a huge variety of bird and animal life. Today, both Dry Lagoon and Stone Lagoon make up the state park, which includes 6 miles of beach, a hiking trail, boat ramp and picnic area. Many people come to the park to wander the beach, combing for agates and other treasures, as well as to watch migrating whales. You can bring your own boat to explore the lagoons or go fishing. There are picnic areas and plenty of trails for the hiker, including 3 miles of Coastal Trail. Day use hours are sunrise to sunset year-round. There is no fee.

WHERE: 40 miles north of Eureka on Hwy 101,
55 miles south of Crescent City.
MORE INFO: 707-677-3570, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=416

Redwood National and State Parks

Modern life can be stressful, with deadlines to meet, meals to prepare and dozens of things to do with no time to do them. Visit Redwood National and State Parks and all that worry will be washed away. Take your time and enjoy all that these lovely parks have to offer, with so much to do for every member of the family. Enjoy more than 50 miles of paved and unpaved biking trails of varying difficulty. If you have a horse, ride along the 41 miles of equestrian paths. There are also more than 160 miles of excellent hiking trails for adventurous backpackers. All of these paths will take you among the colorful wildflowers, grassy hills, wild oak woodlands and soaring redwoods that grow to 350 feet tall and live more than 2,000 years.

Along the stretches of rugged coastline, see pounding surf, sea stacks and thrilling cliffs. World-class rivers can be found right outside the parks, perfect for rafting, kayaking and even fishing. Ranger-guided programs are also available. Learn about the animals that call this place home. Some of these include the red-tailed hawk, kestrel, great horned owl, gopher, meadow mouse, mountain lion, bobcat, coyote, fox, elk, black-tailed deer, goldfinch junco, quail and raven.

WHERE: Off Hwy 101, stretching from Trinidad in the south to Klamath Glen in the north. Several Visitor Centers are located throughout the parks near Crescent City, Hiouchi, Orick and along Newton B. Drury Scenic Pkwy.
MORE INFO: 707-464-6101, NPS.gov/redw

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park

Prairie Creek, an unassuming waterway that enters the Pacific Ocean near Orick, is also the namesake of the 23-square-mile Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, a sanctuary of old-growth redwoods set aside in the early 1920s by the State of California and the Save-the-Redwoods League. The park has been designated a World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve. The busy Visitor Center, located at the southern end of the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway and built next to Elk Prairie, is the starting point for several hiking trails suitable for all-day hikes or short, leisurely strolls. During your visit you’ll come across many different kinds of trees. You may also spot wildlife such as Roosevelt elk, deer, coyotes, mountain lions, bobcats and foxes. More than 260 species of birds have been sighted within the park, making this one of the most popular bird-watching areas in the region. There are also nearly 10 miles of beach to stroll along, as well as the amazing Fern Canyon to explore. The park hosts campgrounds and numerous picnic areas among the redwoods and on the beach.

WHERE: 50 miles north of Eureka off Hwy 101 on Newton B. Drury
Scenic Parkway.
MORE INFO: 707-464-6101, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=415

Amazing Fern Canyon

Fern Canyon lets you take a leisurely stroll, leave everything else behind and enter a magical world. This beautiful natural wonder is a 1-mile-long box canyon, complete with the creek that carved it. Its walls, completely covered in five different varieties of ferns, tower 50 to 80 feet above. Huge overhanging trees grow at the top of the ridge, allowing streams of light to peek through the branches. When the filtered light combines with the iridescently green vegetation, the canyon glows, creating an otherworldly atmosphere.

WHERE: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park is 50 miles north of Eureka off Hwy 101 on Davison Road. Drive through Elk Meadow and onto a scenic 6-mile dirt road to Gold Bluffs Beach. Follow the beach for 3 miles to a parking lot.
MORE INFO: 707 464-6101, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=415

Eureka

Humboldt Bay Harbor photo by Steve Hammons — Humboldt Bay Harbor, photo by Steve Hammons

Like many of the towns in Humboldt County, the city of Eureka got its start as a Gold Rush transport center and later a logging and milling town—full of bars, brothels and card rooms patronized by hundreds of loggers and sailors. With a population of more than 28,000 today, Eureka is the cultural, political and economic hub of Humboldt County. While logging is still an important part of the local economy, Eureka also caters to an increasingly diversified local population.

Proud of its history, the city has hundreds of beautifully restored homes and commercial buildings, such as those in the Old Town area. Eureka also has hotels, inns, restaurants and galleries that rival those in much larger cities. Rivers, ocean, marshes, mountains and forests are all in close proximity. A turn toward Humboldt Bay off Hwy 101 (4th or 5th Street in the heart of Eureka) between C and M Streets will bring the visitor to Eureka’s Old Town district. At the foot of F Street is the Eureka Boardwalk, which runs for five blocks along the waterfront area. Lined with benches, signal flags and other nautical touches, the boardwalk affords views of the Woodley Island Marina, Humboldt Bay and local wildlife. The city continues to work on waterfront development and enhancement. An easy stroll behind the Carson Mansion at the top of 2nd Street leads to the lovely, massive Humboldt County Library where comfortable chairs and great views encourage patrons to curl up with a good book.

A short drive over the Samoa Bridge leads to Woodley Island Marina. The marina was dedicated in 1981 and has berths for 350 vessels. It is probably the best spot to view the waterfront and much of the local fishing fleet. An imposing sculpture, “The Fisherman,” by local artist Dick Crane stands at the end of the marina. It is dedicated to the memory of fishermen who have been lost at sea.

Another great way to see these marine vessels, as well as other pleasing sights, is aboard the M.V. Madaket, a tour boat that offers several daily excursions on the bay. Built on Humboldt Bay in 1910, the Madaket is the oldest continuously operating passenger boat in the United States and is operated by the Humboldt Bay Maritime Museum, which is located next to the Samoa Cookhouse. The Madaket also houses California’s smallest licensed bar.

About 8 miles south on Hwy 101, travelers can visit the picturesque campus of the College of the Redwoods, one of California’s 107 community colleges. Three miles south of CR, as it is known locally, visitors will find the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge, one of the key stopovers for the millions of migratory birds that rely on the Pacific Flyway. More than 200 species of birds can be seen there, including tens of thousands of shorebirds, ducks, geese, swans, and black brant.

There is so much to do in Eureka that it takes days to explore everything. A good first stop is the Chamber of Commerce office at 612 G St., Ste. 101, Eureka, 707-442-3738, where knowledgeable staff can offer any needed advice.

First Saturday Night Arts Alive!

Those who love large-scale art openings will enjoy First Saturday Night Arts Alive! when Eureka galleries in Downtown and Old Town coordinate art openings on the first Saturday each month from 6 to 9pm. Most businesses keep later hours for these events, and the result is a lively mix of artists, art lovers, family fun and shoppers.

Eureka’s Historic Buildings

Carson Mansion photo by Steve Hammons — Carson Mansion, photo by Steve Hammons

In the Victorian style of architecture, more is better: more decorative flourishes; more ornate carvings, turrets and gables; more craftsmen and more embellishment. Take a walk through time with a self-guided tour of Eureka’s grand old Victorian “Queens.”

Eureka is well-known for its Victorian architecture, and the city’s streets are a treasure trove of elaborate and lovingly restored buildings. The Carson Mansion — perhaps the most-photographed Victorian in America — is said to have employed more than 100 craftsmen at one time for the carving, finishing and installing of its intricate decorative flourishes. There are over 1600 historically designated and noteworthy examples of Victorian homes all over Eureka proper. If you are a Victorian buff, take a meander through the easy to navigate streets of Eureka and see a town whose history is still proudly standing. Almost every street in Eureka’s Old Town boasts at least one Victorian.

In addition to its famous Victorians, Eureka is also home to an impressive collection of historic buildings in other architectural styles, including French Second Empire, Greek Revival, Italianate, Eastlake and Queen Anne. Many are on the National Register of Historic Places.

Morris Graves Museum of Art

The Morris Graves Museum of Art in downtown Eureka is dedicated to the arts and artists of the Pacific Northwest, including the works of its patron artist, Morris Graves. The Museum building is the refurbished Eureka Carnegie Library building, a grand structure originally completed in 1904.

The museum is home to the Humboldt Arts Council, whose Permanent Art Collection was created with the purpose of publicly displaying original works of art in Humboldt County schools to give children the opportunity to “live with art.” The artists’ vision and styles and the media they employed vary across a remarkable range, and the quality of the work is consistently top-notch. The exhibits will in turn surprise, delight, awe and inspire you, and fire your imagination. Morris Graves Museum is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 5pm.

WHERE: 636 F St., Eureka
MORE INFO: HumboldtArts.org

Redwood Skywalk at Sequoia Park Zoo

A perfect day on the Redwood Coast begins with a visit to Sequoia Park Zoo. Founded in 1907, it is the oldest zoo in California with over 50 species, some rare and endangered. Meet red pandas from the Himalayas, bird-watch in the Nancy Hilfiker aviary, take pictures on the world-class Redwood Sky Walk! On 6-acres, this award-winning zoo is intimate and accessible for all ages and abilities, the only zoo in the world located within a redwood forest.

The Redwood Sky Walk is a brand-new, self-guided eco-experience unlike any other, with entry inside the Zoo. Designed to showcase our coast redwoods with a new perspective, this interpretive trail gently guides visitors 100 feet above the forest floor and invites guests to learn more about California’s famous north coast region and natural history. The experience is ADA accessible with the exception of one optional 369-foot adventure segment and includes no stairs.

Explore the award-winning Watershed Heroes exhibit which includes a water-play area inviting children to splash and learn about our local watershed. Observe three playful North American river otters swimming underwater in their lush habitat and watch their behavior as they move from land to water in this unique exhibit voted #3 in the world by ZooNation.org. Nearby are two magnificent bald eagles and two common ravens watching from their perches, along with a North American porcupine and a Northern spotted owl all residing within the Raptor Aviary. Check out how a pack of Bush dogs patrol their terraced territory and marvel at the color of the gorgeous flock of Chilean flamingos. The fun and interactive Barnyard is home to a variety of domestic hooved, feathered and furry friends. Locate some surprising wild critters who use human habitats for their homes too, make a game of finding them all!

During your visit, grab a bite at the Zoo’s Ecos Cafe, locally-owned with delicious options. End your visit in the Zoo Gift Shop where you can find the perfect souvenir from a variety of toys, books, games and apparel.

As an Association of Zoos & Aquariums accredited zoo, we meet the highest standards in animal care and welfare and provide a fun, safe, and educational family experience. In addition, AZA-institutions dedicate millions of dollars annually to support scientific research, conservation, and education programs. Sequoia Park Zoo inspires conservation of the natural world by instilling wonder, respect and passion for wildlife.

WHERE: 3414 W St., Eureka

MORE INFO: Sequoia Park Zoo is open Tuesday-Sunday, 10:00am-5:00pm (hours may vary depending on time of year, check website for more information).

WHERE: 3414 W St., Eureka
MORE INFO: 707-441-4263, SequoiaParkZoo.net

Old Town Eureka

The Center of Commerce & Culture Since 1850

Old Town is a living tribute to Eureka’s respect for its roots and historic past. By the 1950s and 1960s, the fine old 19th century commercial buildings and Victorian houses of this several block stretch near the waterfront were showing their age. Community groups, as well as historical organizations in other parts of California, launched the Century III Project, which secured low-interest loans from the federal government to restore the oldest part of town to its original state, with a few embellishments to boot. While not quite original—there are no livery stables in this new incarnation, no shipfitters or sawmills—the area is true to its historic roots. First, 2nd and 3rd Streets make up the heart of Old Town. It is a mix of shops, restaurants, small businesses, galleries and watering holes. Some of the best restaurants in Eureka are in Old Town.

Easily the most famous structure in Old Town is the Carson Mansion, which rises above Old Town at the head of 2nd Street. This elaborately ornamented Victorian was built in the 1880s for lumber baron William Carson and is an incredible mixture of towers and turrets. While it can be enjoyed from the outside, the mansion is now a private club, not open to the public. Across the street from the Carson Mansion stands another large Victorian structure. Affectionately called “The Pink Lady,” it was also built for the Carson family. Directly behind the Carson Mansion is the wonderful Humboldt County Library.

The brick crosswalks, iron benches and planters bright with flowers make 2nd Street the heart of Old Town, but there are great things to see on cross streets too. The Clarke Memorial Museum, located in a columned former bank building at 3rd and E Streets, has an extensive collection of baskets and dance regalia of the Yurok, Hupa and Karuk tribes. These were the indigenous peoples who lived in redwood or cedar plank houses and hunted the forests, mud flats and ocean waters of Humboldt Bay before the loggers and gold-seekers arrived. The American Indian Art and Gift Shop, located on F Street between 2nd and 3rd, features a wide selection of contemporary and traditional items from Indian artists and craftspeople of these tribes and many others from around the nation.

The Humboldt Arts Council spearheaded the restoration of Eureka’s Carnegie Free Library into the Morris Graves Museum of Art. Only a few blocks from Old Town, it is located at 7th and F Streets. In 1999 the building underwent renovation, and now houses the Humboldt Arts Council’s permanent art collection and provides exhibit space for North Coast artisans.

The restoration of Old Town is an ongoing process. Eureka continues to redevelop more of the waterfront and open it to the public. A beautiful waterside boardwalk at the foot of F Street affords views of Humboldt Bay and the Woodley Island Marina. The newest addition is the “C” Street Market Plaza.

Eureka’s Adorni Recreation Center, a handsome building, is used for public functions and provides basketball courts, aerobics classes and a weight room.

Humboldt Bay

F Street Plaza photo by Doug Noble — F Street Plaza, photo by Doug Noble

The Only Deep-Water Port on California’s North Coast

Humboldt Bay provides for a wide array of activities that include commercial and recreational fishing, clamming and crabbing, sailing and kayaking. It is a major resting place for migrating birds; over 250 species of birds can be found there, and bird-watching is a popular year-round pastime. The bay’s waters are so clean that its shellfish may be eaten raw, straight from the bay. Humboldt Bay has three natural islands, several marinas, a harbor, and is home to Old Town Eureka and Woodley Island, charming seaports with Victorian flavor.

Set out on Humboldt Bay by kayak for an intimate and eco-friendly nature experience. Kayakers will find much to do on the waters of the Bay, all in a pristine and protected waterway that’s perfect for beginning paddlers. Explore wildlife and waterfowl refuges, beautiful Victorian architecture on the waterfront, a colorful commercial fishing fleet at Woodley Island Marina, historic Native American sites on Indian Island, a heritage logging town and oyster aquaculture. The Bay offers excellent paddling adventures for everyone from the novice to the expert.

M.V. Madaket Harbor Cruise

Climb aboard the Madaket to enjoy a relaxing 75-minute voyage along the shores of Humboldt Bay. The M.V. Madaket was built in 1910 and is the last survivor of seven original ferries which transported families and mill workers around Humboldt Bay for decades. Today it sits as the oldest passenger motor vessel in continuous service in the entire United States. Between May and October, you can hop on board for a tour and learn about local history, industries, activities, points of interest and wildlife.

The 75-minute narrated cruise takes you along the shores of the bay and Eureka’s waterfront while you learn a bit about the area you’re visiting. A one-hour cocktail cruise will show you the sights and sounds of the bay while you enjoy a drink from the smallest licensed bar in California. You can also privately charter the boat for up to 44 of your friends for a birthday, anniversary or other special event.

The M.V. Madaket is run by the friendly people at Humboldt Bay Maritime Museum, which is located in Samoa. The museum focuses on the boating history of the bay.

WHERE: Departs from the foot of C Street in Old Town Eureka.
MORE INFO: 707-445-1910, HumboldtBayMaritimeMuseum.com

Samoa Cookhouse

For the experience of friends and family sitting down for a casual dinner, talking over the day’s events and catching up on life, head to the Samoa Cookhouse, which has been serving “family style” breakfast, lunch and dinner since 1894. This dining experience is unique. For instance, there are no menus. Delicious meals are prepared every day by skillful chefs, and when you sit down in the old style dining rooms, you are served the food they have made for the day.

The food comes piping hot to the table in large bowls and platters for your family to share and pass around. Some would call this “family style,” but at the Cookhouse they refer to it as “lumber camp style.” This is because the Samoa Cookhouse was founded for mill and dockworkers in the 1890s, and it is the last logging camp-type cookhouse in the western United States.

When you’re done with your meal, visit the on-site museum. It is full of relics and photos, as well as historic logging and lumber camp cookhouse artifacts. The Samoa Cookhouse is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner year-round.

WHERE: Take the Samoa Bridge off Hwy 101, turn left onto Samoa Boulevard, take first left.
MORE INFO: 707-442-1659, SamoaCookhouse.net

Humboldt Bay Maritime Museum

Humboldt Bay was settled in the early 19th century and has had a rich seafaring history filled with adventure, passion, and especially, disaster. From 1850 to 1914, the best way to carry passengers and goods to and from this area was by sea. Between the 1850s and 1940s, more than 40 ships, and more if you count fishing boats, met their demise in and around the treacherous harbor entrance.

Many aspects of maritime life of the North Coast and Humboldt Bay come alive as soon as you step through the door of the Humboldt Bay Maritime Museum. It is filled with artifacts that will show you about the shipwrecks, shipbuilding, lumber schooners, fishing boats, ferries, tugs and the lighthouses that lit the way for all boats to pass safely into the harbor. They even have a lighthouse lens from the middle of the 19th century. The M.V. Madaket, a 1910 passenger ferry located at the foot of F St., offers cruises around Humboldt Bay and is also operated by the museum.

WHERE: Next to the Samoa Cookhouse, open Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to 4pm.
MORE INFO: 707-444-9440, HumboldtBayMaritimeMuseum.com

National Wildlife Refuge

See pristine coastal habitat at the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge. The Refuge is located on Humboldt Bay just south of Eureka, and provides sustenance for migratory water birds, including tens of thousands of shorebirds, ducks, geese, swans and black brant. Established in 1971, the refuge was created to preserve the great diversity of birds, mammals, fish, amphibians, invertebrates and plants in Humboldt Bay. In spring, the bay’s eelgrass beds are a key staging area for brant prior to their return to Arctic nesting grounds. The Refuge grasslands provide important habitat for thousands of Aleutian Canada geese. It is one of the key points for the millions of migratory birds that rely on the Pacific Flyway. More than 200 bird species, including 80 kinds of water birds and four endangered species, regularly feed, rest or nest in the Refuge.

The Richard J. Guadagno Visitor Center is open daily from 8am to 5pm (except Federal holidays), and has dioramas and an observation room equipped with spotting scopes. There are exciting things to see and do year-round, with peak wildlife viewing from November through March, hunting and fishing in designated seasons, and the popular Aleutian Geese Fly-Off in early spring. Enjoy a solitary stroll over the various trails or take a guided walk on the first and third Wednesdays, or second Sunday of the month. All walks leave the Visitor Center at 9am. Sorry, no dogs allowed.

WHERE: 1020 Ranch Rd., off the Hwy 101 Hookton Rd. exit in Loleta.
MORE INFO: www.fws.gov/refuge/humboldt_bay/

Blue Ox Millworks & Historic Park

Blue Ox Millworks is a manufacturer of authentic Victorian-style architectural millwork. Antique equipment ranging from the mid 1800s to the early 1900s is used for making custom doors, windows, turnings and Victorian gingerbread that is shipped nationwide. Tooling also includes the world’s largest collection of operating Barnes Brothers Equipment Company human-powered tools. Over the past 38 years the craftsmen at Blue Ox have produced woodwork for the renovation of many historic buildings including governors’ mansions, national park visitor centers, saloons, historic cathedrals and hundreds of private historic homes as well as new homes.

The Millworks offers guided tours, but you can also tour at your own pace and observe the woodworkers in action, as well as enjoy learning about America’s frontier past by visiting the historic logging camp, the blacksmith shop, ceramics studio, letterpress print shop, apothecary and boatworks. Learn how to use local clays, how to create experimental glazes utilizing formulas from as far back as the 1400s and how to make stains and varnishes from natural elements. A gift store is available featuring items made by the high school students of Blue Ox Community School, an alternative school that operates on the premises.

WHERE: Corner of 1st and X Streets, Eureka.
MORE INFO: 707-444-3437, BlueOxMill.com

Humboldt Botanical Gardens

The Humboldt Botanical Garden is a place where family members of all ages can relax and experience the wonders of nature. The 44.5 acre garden features five major gardens and many hiking trails available to the visitor for exploration. The Garden is a place to explore and learn in an atmosphere where plants, nature and the environment truly come alive.

Whether you just need a break from a hectic day, want to picnic with your family or need a place to hike, the Humboldt Botanical Garden is a must-see destination. The Garden is also a great place to get information on plants that grow in the local climate and to inspire you with new ideas to take home to your own garden.

Humboldt Botanical Gardens is a member of the American Horticultural Society Reciprocal Admissions Program. The Garden is open every Saturday from 10am to 2pm and during the week by appointment (extended hours are being considered.) Admission is $5 for nonmembers over the age of 12. Members and children are free.

WHERE: Next to College of the Redwoods just south of Eureka. From Hwy 101 take exit 698 to the north College of the Redwoods entrance where you will see signs leading you to the garden.
MORE INFO: 707-442-5139, HBGF.org

Redwood Acres

Redwood Acres Event Center is a venerable Eureka institution situated on 52 acres near the north end of Harris Street. It first opened its gates in the fall of 1937 for a local agricultural exposition and horse racing; admission to the fairgrounds that year was 50 cents per person.

Today auto racing has replaced horse racing, and the agricultural expo event has given way to a full slate of events that include The Best of Humboldt Fair, Humboldt Roller Derby, Humboldt Artisans, Humboldt Sponsors, Redwood Flea Market, NCIDC Intertribal Gathering, Antique Show, Local 4-H, F.F.A. and Junior Livestock Association Shows, Rose Society Show, Quilters Guild, Gem and Mineral Show and Mushroom Fair. The auto racing takes place at Redwood Acres Raceway, a semi-banked, 3/8-mile paved oval racetrack with a vintage covered grandstand and lighting for nighttime racing. And the horses haven’t gone away entirely — you’ll still find an Equine Center with eight barns, four arenas, a round pen, 164 stalls and 77 turn-out pen spaces.

This place is jumping!

WHERE: 3750 Harris St., Eureka
MORE INFO: 707-445-3037, RedwoodAcres.com

Central Humboldt

Fortuna Rodeo Parade photo by Steve Hammons — Fortuna Rodeo Parade, photo by Steve Hammons

Nestled between Eureka and the Avenue of the Giants,
visitors will discover the heart of Humboldt County.

Fortuna, nicknamed “The Friendly City” and also known as “Sunny Fortuna,” lies alongside the Eel River. It is a popular destination both for family-friendly fun and for the business traveler. Its Riverwalk is home to one of the finest Conference Centers in California, as well as to hotels, restaurants and a popular walking path along the river. Every year Fortuna plays host to a sparkling array of colorful and exciting events and activities. Two favorites are the Fortuna Redwood AutoXpo, an eagerly awaited car show and ’50s-themed celebration, and the Fortuna Rodeo, one of the oldest rodeos in California.

Surrounding Fortuna are several smaller towns, each with its own unique identity. Ferndale is an exquisite Victorian village with shops, restaurants and lodgings that outshine those of many a larger town or city. Loleta offers such diverse recreational activities as bird-watching at the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge, paragliding at Table Bluff, and world-class cheese-tasting. Scotia, across the river from neighboring Rio Dell, was originally built by the storied Pacific Lumber Company, and is one of the last “company towns” still standing in America. East of Fortuna along Hwy 36, visitors will find the sleepy rural hamlets of Hydesville and Carlotta guarding the approach to the recreation areas at Van Duzen County Park and Grizzly Creek State Park, with majestic redwoods towering above the Van Duzen River.

Sunny Fortuna

Fortuna AutoXpo photo by Steve Hammons — Fortuna AutoXpo, photo by Steve Hammons

Fortuna is situated on the northeast shore of the Eel River on Hwy 101, about 9 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Noticeably warmer and sunnier than the coastal towns just north of it because of its inland location, the city is often referred to as “Sunny Fortuna.”

Established around 1874, and originally named Slide and then Springville, the town was finally named Fortuna because its citizens felt fortunate to live there. It was not just loggers and lumber barons who first settled in the area; many Eel River Valley settlers were originally drawn to California by the prospects of gold. When they didn’t “strike it rich,” they soon returned to the farming life they had known in the East, settling the fertile land of the valley to raise livestock, grains and a variety of fruits, especially apples. The valley’s lush ground yielded large crops of fruits and vegetables, and the dairy industry became the area’s leading farming occupation.

The warm weather and friendly atmosphere make Fortuna a particularly good setting for a number of annual events, including the Daffodil Show in March, Art and Wine in the Park in June, Fortuna Redwood AutoXpo in July, and Hops in Humboldt in September. The Fortuna Rodeo in July is one of the oldest in California, dating back to 1921.

Fortuna Riverwalk

Fortuna’s Riverwalk is a 2-mile path along the Eel River that offers bicyclists and hikers an intimate look at one of the North Coast’s captivating rivers. In summer and early fall, the river is usually a tiny ribbon meandering through a huge channel of sand and gravel, but during winter, after a heavy rain, the river can rise to within a few yards of the top of the levee. The air is fresh and sweet, and views are marvelous.

The Riverwalk area has become a perfect stop for travelers along Hwy 101, with hotels, restaurants and conveniences all within walking distance. It makes an excellent base from which to tour the Eel River Valley, with many amenities for residents and travelers alike.

The 13,000-square foot River Lodge Conference Center, located on the Riverwalk, is beautifully designed; an award-winning, rustic-looking, yet modern structure. Works by some of the area’s premier artists adorn the interior of the building, and the grounds are home to Northern California’s largest and most diverse heather garden.

Rohner Park

Fortuna’s Rohner Park has a long history of memory-making for locals and visitors alike. Nestled in a sunny spot, bounded by natural creeks and surrounded by old-growth redwoods, the park features a playground, tot lot, horseshoe pits, basketball court and immaculate baseball fields — even free Wi-Fi. It also offers deep pit barbecue pits and a large picnic area with an outdoor fireplace. There are many beautiful trails on the hillside where you can get lost in the ferns and see some of the oldest redwoods in the area, all within blocks of a small town main street.

Rohner Park’s famous rodeo grounds have been the training grounds for most of the area’s cowgirls and cowboys, and each summer hosts the Fortuna Rodeo. Fortuna’s beloved Depot Museum, which holds many of the city’s historical records, artifacts and treasures, is located at the park’s entrance. The Firemen’s Pavilion has hosted weekend roller-skating for several generations and is also a favorite dance and party venue.

WHERE: 5 Park St., just off Main Street, Fortuna.
MORE INFO: 707-725-7620, FriendlyFortuna.com

Fortuna Depot Museum

A former railroad depot originally constructed in 1889, the Depot was purchased by the City of Fortuna in 1974 and moved from the foot of 7th Street to Rohner Park. It reopened as a museum on July 4, 1976 amid Bicentennial celebrations.

Featured displays include railroad and logging artifacts, a collection of local Native American basketry, a general store display, a fishing collection, a Rohner family history exhibit in the old ticket office, and the Fortuna and Scotia Volunteer Fire Department exhibit. In the museum’s Reference Room visitors can research genealogy and local history.

A favorite display with younger visitors is Caboose #11, built for the Northwestern Pacific Railroad in 1909 and parked next to the museum building. Visitors can try out the museum’s train whistle, and learn the meanings of different whistle signals (such as two long blasts, one short, and one long, meaning “Train is coming to a crossing”). Admission is free. Open June through August daily, noon to 4:30pm; and September through May, Thursday through Sunday, noon to 4:30pm.

WHERE: 3 Park St. in Rohner Park, Fortuna
MORE INFO: 707-725-7645, FriendlyFortuna.com

Headwaters Forest Reserve Salmon Pass Trail

The Salmon Pass Trail is located in the southern part of the Headwaters Forest Reserve, and is accessible only through BLM-led guided hikes which must be arranged in advance. Hikers meet at Newburg Park in Fortuna at 10am The ranger gives an orientation and everyone leaves at 10:15, following the ranger in their own vehicles through Newburg Gate for 3.5 miles along a gravel road to the trailhead.

The first half mile of the trail passes through a young to mid-aged forest with views of restored watershed areas. The next 2 miles ascend through the old-growth redwood forest with a stunning view across the Salmon Creek watershed before looping back as it descends through the old growth. This hike is considered moderately strenuous and is difficult for children under 10. There is no stopping for lunch, but snacks are okay. No pets are allowed. The round trip is about 2.7 miles long and takes 3 to 4 hours. Hikers can expect to be back at their vehicles by 1pm.

MORE INFO: Guided hikes can be scheduled between May 15 and November 15 by contacting the BLM Arcata Field Office weekdays at 707-825-2300 or emailing jdclark@blm.gov.

Victorian Village of Ferndale

Main Street in Ferndale photo by Steve Hammons — Main Street in Ferndale, photo by Steve Hammons

Take a step back in time to the historic village of Ferndale. Ferndale was settled in 1852, and by the 1880s it had become a bustling agricultural, dairy and transportation center. Immigrants from Scandinavia, Italy and Portugal gravitated to this thriving community. Today, the entire one-square-mile village is a California Historical Landmark, with its Main Street listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is considered the best-preserved Victorian village in California, an idyllic town of 1,400 people that in many ways has remained unchanged since the 1890s.

Take a tour down Main Street and encounter the photogenic beauty of delightful shops and ornate buildings. Stroll past charming churches dating back to the 1800s, and carefully restored Victorian homes with stunning gardens. While on Main Street, enjoy the fine restaurants, art galleries, antique stores and specialty shops. Hear the ringing of the blacksmith’s hammer, and watch fresh candy being dipped by hand to whet your appetite for a fine dinner and an evening of theater.

Many visitors are surprised to discover that the tiny town of Ferndale has a year-round theater season. The Ferndale Repertory Theatre, home to outstanding live productions, has pleased audiences for more than 30 years in its intimate downtown venue.

Ferndale’s Russ Park is 105 acres of lush coastal habitat. To go there, turn east from Main Street on Ocean Avenue. Trails wind through the park, but wheeled vehicles are not allowed. Centerville Beach can be reached by turning west on Ocean Avenue. The remote Lost Coast can be accessed via Mattole Road; the twisting route leads south and west to Cape Mendocino, the westernmost point on the coast of California.

Ferndale is also home to the Humboldt County Fair, and has been every August since 1896. It is also the finish line for the annual Memorial Day weekend “Kinetic Grand Championship” kinetic sculpture race.

Humboldt County Fair

The Humboldt County Fair in Ferndale is the oldest in California (going strong since 1896), and features the only horse racing in the county. In fact, it offers live and satellite horse racing, mule racing, carnival rides and games, death-defying stunts, live entertainment, competitive and interesting exhibits, plenty of livestock events, great fair-time foods, special programs, and the old-fashioned fun of a county-wide “family” reunion! For big time fun with a small town flavor every August, be sure to experience the Humboldt County Fair.

WHERE: The Humboldt County Fairgrounds, 1250 5th St., Ferndale
MORE INFO: 707-786-9511, HumboldtCountyFair.org

Centerville County Park & Beach

Centerville Beach photo by Mackenzie Kincaid — Centerville Beach, photo by Mackenzie Kincaid

Just outside Ferndale, discover a pristine beach on the Pacific Ocean that stretches for 9 miles with dairy farms to the north and steep cliffs to the south. At Centerville County Park and Beach, have an exciting afternoon filled with hiking, picnicking, beachcombing and wildlife viewing. Sandpipers dance on the water’s edge and cormorants, pelicans and gulls soar over the water in search of a meal. Between the middle of November and the beginning of March, Eel River Bottoms, visible from the beach, has one of the largest coastal congregations of tundra swans. You can spot harbor seals sunbathing amid the breakers a short way from the shore. Gray whales can be seen from the beach, migrating south during the winter months and heading north from January through May. You might even see mother whales and their calves coming close to shore in April and May. One of the best lookouts is just south of the beach on Centerville Road. ATVs, 4-wheel drive vehicles and horses are welcome to travel the sand. You can even acquire a special permit and go fishing for night smelt. There is no camping on the beach, but it can be enjoyed from 5am to midnight.

WHERE: 5 miles west of Ferndale on Centerville Road.
MORE INFO: 707-445-7651

Kinetic Grand Championship

Humboldt County’s Kinetic Grand Championship is a 3-day, 42-mile race along California’s North Coast from Arcata to Ferndale. Racers compete for glory, pedaling along roads, over dunes, and even through Humboldt Bay. Their vehicles, called kinetic sculptures, are all-terrain, human-powered works of art engineered to race over road, water, mud and sand. Many are animated, with moving parts such as blinking eyes, flapping wings or fins, and heads that look around. The Kinetic Grand Championship is held annually every Memorial Day weekend. Entire families come out to enjoy the spectacle and cheer their favorite entries.

MORE INFO: KineticGrandChampionship.com

Historic Ferndale Cemetery

Ferndale Cemetery, photo by Mackenzie Kincaid

A stroll through Ferndale’s Cemetery is a trip through the history of the town and the people who founded it. Some of the headstones date back to the 1860s, and many of the town’s first pioneers and most venerable citizens have been laid to rest here. The graves are carefully tended, and you’ll often find fresh flowers on even the oldest of gravestones. Take a walk among the tombstones and mausoleums, and experience the lofty vantage point: the cemetery sits on a hill overlooking the town, which affords visitors panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, the town of Ferndale and the Eel River Valley.

WHERE: On Bluff Street, just a block away from downtown Ferndale.

Loleta

Fortuna and Ferndale’s neighbor, Loleta, is a small, picturesque dairy community about 12 miles south of Eureka. It sits on the gentle rolling foothills of the Eel River Valley, offering a spectacular view of the valley, river, dairy ranches and the Pacific Ocean beyond. The town’s name comes from the Wiyot name for the area, Lo-le-tah, meaning “pleasant place at the end of the water.”

Activities in the area include touring the Loleta Cheese Factory which ships cheese worldwide, hunting for antiques, and enjoying the scintillating nightlife at Bear River Casino. Also popular are horseback riding, paragliding and beachcombing at Table Bluff, where visitors can hike along the beach south to the 2,000-acre Eel River Wildlife Area. Other enjoyable pastimes for the nature lover include hiking, boating and bird-watching in the Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge just off Hookton Road near Hwy 101 in Loleta. The refuge is temporary or full-time home to hundreds of species of birds including waterfowl, raptors, shorebirds and songbirds, as well as other wildlife including harbor seals and river otters.

Bear River Family Entertainment Center

Loleta’s Bear River Family Entertainment Center offers a state-of-the-art family entertainment facility that has everyone oohing and ahhing. Humboldt County has never seen anything like it, and it has quickly become the area’s hottest destination for family fun. Open seven days a week, it offers bowling, laser tag, an arcade, and even more, including pool, shuffleboard, and fun foods like pizza, hot dogs and burgers.

Their two-level laser tag facility, the only laser tag area in Humboldt County, uses a total immersion LaserTron system that allows for a variety of exciting game formats.

There are 10 lanes in their beautiful boutique bowling alley. Each lane has automatic bumpers that can raise and lower between bowlers, and their touch screen scoring system will even let you take photos and call for service.

Friday and Saturday nights after 10pm, rock out to “Cosmic Bowling,” a multi-media experience that marries a fantastic sound system, music videos projected right above the lanes and an all-around light show.

Also new is their 38-game arcade with play card technology and a digital points system.

WHERE: 263 Keisner Rd., Loleta
MORE INFO: 707-733-1880, BearRiverFEC.com

Southern Humboldt

A Vacation Destination

With unsurpassed natural beauty and a glorious climate, Southern Humboldt is a delight for visitors and residents alike. Humboldt Redwoods State Park, with the Avenue of the Giants running through its eastern reaches, attracts visitors from around the world. Less famous but equally stunning are the mountains of the King Range National Conservation Area, and the pristine, rugged shoreline of Shelter Cove and the Lost Coast. Here, where the range plunges into the Pacific Ocean, is the longest undeveloped stretch of coast in California.

With amenities south of Humboldt Redwoods State Park in Garberville, Redway and Benbow, in Shelter Cove, and along the Avenue of the Giants, southern Humboldt is well served by places to eat, stay, and fuel up while exploring all the area has to offer. There are also colorful and charming shops with unique gift items and dazzling artwork.

Additionally, the area is noteworthy as a popular destination for music lovers because of venues and events featuring both local and international acts. Southern Humboldt is home to a premier indoor music venue at the Mateel Community Center in Redway, the exciting Summer Arts and Music Festival and other outdoor shows in Benbow, and the famous annual Reggae on the River Festival at French’s Camp, just north of the Humboldt County line near Piercy. There is so much to enjoy in southern Humboldt that you’ll have a hard time tearing yourself away when it’s time to leave!

Garberville & Redway

Redwood Drive Garberville photo by Denise Comiskey — Redwood Drive, Garberville, photo by Denise Comiskey

Gateway to the Avenue of the Giants

The first postmaster of Garberville, Jacob Garber, named the town after himself in the late 1800s. Earlier names for the settlement were Dogtown, believed to refer to how dog-tired the early settlers were after erecting the town’s wooden structures, and South Fork, after the South Fork of the nearby Eel River. When a road connecting San Francisco to Eureka was established in the 1920s, it became a favorite stop for motorists.

Today Garberville is a bustling community that belies its size. The town is known for its friendly residents, beautiful scenery and is both a stopping-off point and a destination for travelers. Garberville is well placed on Hwy 101, 200 miles north of San Francisco and 65 miles south of Eureka, with easy access to the nearby Avenue of the Giants and the South Fork of the Eel River. With a vibrant array of shops, services, restaurants, a small airport and a hospital, the town caters to travelers along Hwy 101, as well as serving the residents of the surrounding countryside.

Three miles west of Garberville is neighboring Redway, nestled in a crook of the South Fork of the Eel. Like Garberville, it offers great food and charming shops, along with all the necessities one might find in a much larger town. It is also home to the Mateel Community Center, a top-notch venue for music and cultural events that draws people from throughout Humboldt County and beyond.

Benbow Golf Course

With meticulously tended greens and glorious Humboldt County views, the Benbow Valley Golf Course near Garberville is not only the lone public golf course in southern Humboldt County, but also one of Northern California’s most challenging. This nine-hole, par-35 course has two sets of tees, allowing golfers to play 18 holes. Described by many as “unforgiving,” players are often surprised to discover just how challenging it is. There is an additional set of tees for the junior or beginning golfer, making this a perfect family activity. In addition to its golf course and well-stocked pro shop, the Benbow Valley Golf Course offers a putting green and driving cage. It’s fun for serious golfers and beginners alike.

WHERE: Take the Benbow exit (#636) 2.5 miles south of Garberville on Hwy 101. Turn left onto Lake Benbow Drive, left again on Benbow Drive and left again into the Benbow Valley Golf Course.
MORE INFO: 707-923-2777, 866-236-2697

Avenue of the Giants

Don’t Miss the World-Famous 31-Mile Scenic Drive through the Longest Stretch of Remaining Virgin Redwoods in the World

The Avenue of the Giants offers more than the majesty of towering redwoods. This 31-mile route along the South Fork of the Eel River meanders through several small hamlets that give a glimpse into the history of Humboldt County, and also provide opportunities for travelers to get out of their cars and stretch and refresh themselves. The towns along the Avenue, once closely tied to the timber industry, now rely more on the tourists who come to experience the old-growth redwood habitat, swim in the Eel River and visit Humboldt Redwoods State Park. At the south end of the Avenue of the Giants is Phillipsville, with restaurants, a grocery store, a variety of visitor attractions and several river access points. Further north is the town of Miranda, surrounded by redwoods and home to a growing community of artists. Myers Flat, north of Miranda and in the heart of the redwoods, has a wine tasting room as well as a family oriented campground. The town of Weott is no longer located on its original site, having been relocated after the devastating flood of 1964, which washed it and several other local towns away. Look for the tall post marking the depth of the floodwater. The Visitor’s Center at Humboldt Redwoods State Park is close by. The town of Redcrest, situated on higher ground, was protected from the devastating flood that wiped out the lower-lying towns. An abundance of redwood attractions make it a popular destination. The northernmost community on the Avenue is Pepperwood, close to the Avenue of the Giants Information Center and easily accessible hiking trails.

Humboldt Redwoods State Park

The natural crown jewel of the county is Humboldt Redwoods State Park. This is the definitive spot to see the magnificence of California’s famous coastal redwoods. In the early part of the last century there was a nationwide effort to save what remained of the old-growth redwoods on California’s North Coast. Philanthropists and civic clubs began buying groves of trees for the purpose of preserving them. Humboldt Redwoods State Park was founded in 1921 with one of those purchases, the Bolling Memorial Grove, named in honor of a fallen World War I soldier.

Today, Humboldt Redwoods is California’s third largest state park, occupying 53,000 acres, including 17,000 acres of pristine old-growth redwoods. Humboldt Redwoods’ star attraction is the Avenue of the Giants. The park is rarely crowded, and offers three large drive-in campgrounds. There are environmental, group, backcountry and horse camps. Hikers can enjoy more than 100 miles of trails, some of which are also open to equestrians and mountain bikers. The South Fork of the Eel River provides fishing, boating and great swimming holes. The park also features a number of day use areas. The Humboldt Redwoods Visitor Center, on the Avenue of the Giants between Myers Flat and Weott, is the heart of the park. Large and comprehensive, it is staffed by knowledgeable volunteers.

MORE INFO: Park Office 707-946-2409, Visitor Center 707-946-2263

Listed here are five great hikes chosen by the volunteers of the Humboldt Redwoods Interpretive Association who staff the Visitor Center. For a small fee, there is also a map available at the Visitor Center clearly marking the location of the trails.

Founder’s Grove Nature Loop Trail. An easy hike, just over two-thirds of a mile in total. The trailhead is easy to find off the Avenue of the Giants, about 4 miles north of the Visitor Center.
Rockefeller Loop Trail in Rockefeller Forest. The trailhead is off Mattole Road, about a mile west of where Mattole Road joins the Avenue of the Giants, four miles north of the Visitor Center. In this short hike, which is just two-thirds of a mile long, hikers will find 17 of the world’s 100 tallest trees.
Bull Creek Trail. This is a 7-mile round-trip hike through the Bull Creek State Wilderness. At 10,000 acres, it is the largest section of old-growth redwood forest left. This trail is accessed off the Rockefeller Loop Trail during the summer season when a summer bridge is installed.
Johnson Camp Trail. This 10-mile round-trip trail has some steep sections as it climbs to a backcountry camp. Hikers will find deserted cabins the loggers once slept in, along with other artifacts from the heyday of logging. This is also an equestrian trail, so hikers may encounter horseback travelers along the way. The trailhead is about 6 miles west on Mattole Road, across from the Albee Creek Campground.
Grasshopper Multiuse Trail. This is a 14-mile round-trip adventure that takes hikers to the fire lookout atop Grasshopper Peak, which tops out at 3,379 feet. It is an 8-hour round trip for average hikers who will enjoy stunning views of the entire park from the lookout. There is a backcountry campground just below the peak. This trail is also open to horses and bicycles. Access the trail from the Johnson Camp trailhead.

*click image for larger view*
Avenue of the Giants Map, 101Things.com

Eel River Swimming Holes

One of the most striking features of Humboldt County is the magnificent Eel River. The North and Middle Forks of the Eel have been designated as part of the National Wild and Scenic River system, and the Eel River’s watershed is the third largest in California. The river flows through five counties with winding lazy curves to churning whitewater. It runs parallel to the coast and Hwy 101. A large part of its run is through the Avenue of the Giants, making Hwy 101 and the Avenue two of the most scenic roads in Southern Humboldt.

The South Fork of the Eel River skirts the eastern edge of Humboldt Redwoods State Park. During the summer months, the river’s tributaries are slow-moving streams that provide a number of natural pools and safe swimming holes. There are many river access sites within the park. Dyerville Flats, located where the South Fork joins the main branch of the Eel River, features restrooms, picnic tables, an overlook and ample parking. Dyerville is located 4 miles north of the Visitor Center and a short distance beyond the turnout for Founders Grove and the intersection of Mattole Road.

The easiest river access to find from the Visitor Center is Gould Bar. A sign marks where the gravel road intersects Avenue of the Giants on the west, just tenths of a mile north of the center. A short drive takes you to two large swimming holes. You can also hike there from the Visitor Center’s parking lot or Burlington campground. High Rock is another access point that is easy to get to. Watch for the High Rock bar sign as you drive north on Avenue the Giants about 6 miles from the Visitor Center. A short drive down a gravel road takes you to a parking area. From there, it’s a short walk to the expansive bar that offers several placid, ideal sites.

The Immortal Tree

Along the Avenue of the Giants off Hwy 101 stands one of the most durable trees in history. The Immortal Tree is over 950 years old, and has experienced more trials and tribulations than any single tree should. It has been a victim of lightning strikes, fires, floods and the logger’s ax. Yet it still stands and continues to grow heartily. Look up and you’ll see a wooden fish attached to the trunk where the color of the bark changes. This indicates the high water mark when the area flooded in 1964. There’s also part of an ax left stuck in the tree where loggers tried to cut it down, but eventually gave up when the tree would not give way. The Immortal Tree has been hit by lightning several times. The evidence of these strikes is on its scarred trunk. This landmark makes for a wonderful photo opportunity and is a perfect spot for a picnic.

WHERE: 1 mile north of Redcrest on the Avenue of the Giants.
MORE INFO: AncientRedwoods.net

Eternal Tree House

For a fascinating experience, stop at the Eternal Tree House on the Avenue of the Giants. This one-time natural colossus stood for more than 2,500 years before being reduced to a surviving stump. The still-living stump contains a huge cavern caused by fire centuries ago. It had first been used for shelter by Indians, and later trappers, hunters, travelers and their livestock. In the early 1900s, Harry McLeod, an expert wood splitter, hewed out the interior with an ax and adz. The 20-foot room was refined in 1950 and a gift shop was established inside the stump. The walls still bear the marks of the work and are mementos of an all but lost art. The tree itself is said to have parented many surrounding trees from its burl. The Eternal Tree House offers free admission, a cafe and a gift shop with a large selection of locally crafted redwood products. There is parking for RVs and buses.

WHERE: 26510 Avenue of the Giants in Redcrest
MORE INFO: 707-722-4262

California Federation of Women’s Clubs Hearthstone

Early in the 20th century, women’s civic groups around California organized a statewide campaign to protect the redwoods in Humboldt County. In response, the California Federation of Women’s Clubs purchased a grove of giant redwoods next to the South Fork of the Eel River. In 1931, renowned San Francisco architect Julia Morgan, designer of the Hearst Castle, fashioned a monument to celebrate saving the grove from the loggers’ saw. Morgan’s monument stands today in the Federation’s Grove, a peculiar four-sided hearth that features fireplaces facing each direction. Officially called the California Federation of Women’s Clubs Hearthstone, it was built of native stone and redwood timber. The grove is easy to reach by car, and is a popular picnic place including two solid redwood picnic tables big enough to accommodate a family reunion. It also has a great swimming hole.

WHERE: Take Avenue of the Giants about 3 miles north from the Visitor Center. A sign marks a narrow road that runs to the west several hundred yards into the forest, to a parking lot. The hearthstone sits under several tall trees, a few feet back from a bank that overlooks the Eel River.

Shelter Cove & The Lost Coast

For the traveler looking to “get away from it all,” Shelter Cove, in the heart of California’s Lost Coast, is an ideal choice. Back in the 1920s, when engineers decided that the coastline from northern Mendocino County through the King Range in Humboldt County was too rugged for even a two-lane highway, road builders bypassed the entire area. This left it the most remote and undeveloped part of the California coast, making it perfect for those seeking peace and seclusion in a setting of breathtaking natural beauty. Shelter Cove is accessible only by boat, by flying into its tiny daylight air landing strip, or via 23 miles of winding mountain road from Redway. It features amenities for the traveler that include lodgings, restaurants, a cocktail lounge, a coffeehouse and markets.

Besides rest and relaxation, the village and surrounding environs also offer those who prefer more activity opportunities to fish, crab, dive for abalone, watch for whales, hike, and take stunning photographs of the scenery and wildlife. The thick redwood forests surrounding the village are home to bald eagles, Roosevelt elk, black tail deer… and if you believe the legend, Bigfoot. The rocky shoreline makes Shelter Cove a refuge for seals and sea lions, and is home to some of the world’s richest tide pools. There are picnic areas that offer access to the beach or to the rocks below the bluffs.

Black Sands Beach to the north is deserted and picturesque, with spectacular views of the King Range. Although popular lore has it that the black sands are volcanic in origin, in fact they come from dark colored sandstone and older compressed shale.

The King Range became the nation’s first National Conservation Area in 1970. The federal Bureau of Land Management maintains miles of trails in the Conservation Area, most of which intersect the legendary Lost Coast Trail. For much of the Lost Coast, the mountains dive directly into the sea, a geographic barrier to development that has left much of this region in its original rugged and wild state. The trail runs 25 miles along the shore at the base of the mountains from the mouth of the Mattole to Shelter Cove. There is a wide selection of automobile and backcountry campgrounds in and around the Conservation Area.

Accessing the King Range can be an adventure in itself. Hikers can take the legendary but potentialy deadly Lost Coast Trail north out of the village of Shelter Cove (see next page). Unpaved back roads, most suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles with high ground clearance, intersect Shelter Cove Road on the south, and Wilder Ridge Road on the east. On the north end of the range, access is near the mouth of the Mattole River on Lighthouse Road, off Mattole Road.

Cape Mendocino Lighthouse

The Cape Mendocino Lighthouse has a rich history as a signal of warning in some of the Pacific Coast’s most treacherous waters. Originally erected in 1868 on Cape Mendocino, California’s westernmost point, the 43-foot tall tower became one of the highest lighthouses in the nation. The lighthouse was decommissioned in 1951, and in 1999 it was disassembled and relocated to Shelter Cove where it was restored. The lighthouse now sits at Mal Coombs Park on Point Delgada, at the southern end of Shelter Cove. It is open for tours when docents are available, from 10:30am to 3:30pm, Memorial Day through Labor Day.

MORE INFO: LighthouseFriends.com/light.asp?ID=25

The Lost Coast Trail

Backpacking the Lost Coast, CenterActivities.Humboldt.edu

People come to hike the Lost Coast Trail from all over the world. It is not for everyone, however; it requires being in great shape, having backpacking experience, and calls for significant preparation.

Although the trail, which runs along the shore at the base of the mountains from the mouth of the Mattole to Shelter Cove, is only 25 miles long, it takes three or four days to hike it. Footing is slow and uncertain, with rocks constantly moving under your feet. Expect to average about a mile and a half per hour hiking on the beaches.

Most of the Coastal Trail is well-marked, but hikers should nevertheless carry a map of the area and a tide table, and ideally a portable radio with a weather band. Sections of the trail up to four miles long become completely submerged at high tide, replaced by surf crashing against cliff walls for hours, and the threat of drowning if you get caught then is very real. You should also stay away from the beach area during small craft advisories; rough surf can wash up onto the trail and sweep you away.

Do not attempt this hike by yourself. Your party should let someone know that you’ve gone, and when you expect to be done. That way if you run into trouble, people will know to look for you.

Reservations are not required, but you will need a walk-in permit and bear cannisters for food storage, or face being fined.

WHERE: To get to Shelter Cove, take the Hwy 101 exit to Redway/Garberville and follow the signs to Redway. In Redway, turn west on Briceland Road and go 14 miles to Shelter Cove Road. Turn right on Shelter Cove Road and follow the signs to Black Sand Beach.
MORE INFO: Maps (and bear canisters) are available at BLM’s King Range project office in Whitethorn, 707-986-5400, or in Arcata, 707-825-2300; BLM.gov/visit/king-range